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In this document, we will guide you through installing the CNC Super CCPM Head assembly onto an FP Ikarus Heli kit. With this modification, the stability of the Hornet head will be gained with the hassle free and solid tail of the piccolos. Everything you need for the head assembly is included in the kit, including the shaft that’s been designed for the proper length. Since we will be cutting away the servos mounts, a 120-degree plate will be used to mount the servos. We also use a custom Titanium shaft ( HeliHobby part# HH2200 ) as well as a custom CNC 120 degrees swashplate ( with a unique side post ) so Let's get started.
We will explain how to assemble the head using HeliHobby’s Super Head ( Part# HH2210 ) and some MS Parts including the MS Ball Links, CP Stock GF Blades, Threaded steel flybar and Paddles.
We start by assembling the CNC Super head assembly per the stock CP instructions. It builds almost identical to the stock version with the exception of setscrew pins instead of just pushpins. The whole assembly should look as shown
To the left is a template that we use for cutting out the 120-degree servo mounting plate that we’ll need for the CCPM head. Confirm that the template is the correct size by measuring the ticks on the template. They are in millimeters, enlarge or decrease the size as needed to get the correct size.
Next, we make a 120-degree servo plate, or you can purchase a pre-made one directly from Helihobby. Any type of stiff but light material can be used. In this case, we used carbon fiber accent plates. We use the template that is provided above, cut it out using a sharp x-acto knife and using stick glue or some sort of water-based adhesive, we attach it to the plate to the carbon. Then using a new sharp x-acto blade, we cut the template out. Start the center-mounting hole but don’t cut it all the way out, you will enlarge it as needed to fit the main shaft post.
Lets first start off by stripping everything off the stock heli kit. We take the FP head assembly off, and all the gear that you have installed on there. Then we cut the aileron (left – right cyclic) servo mount off using a sharp x-acto knife or a Dremel cut off wheel. When using an x-acto, take great care not to slip and cut yourself. We also cut the stock anti-rotation arm off and take any extra material off needed to make the whole top of the shaft assembly the same thickness. We then slide the 120-degree plate on to the main shaft mount and measure 15mm from the top as shown. Take great care to ensure it’s level and in the correct position as shown so that the servos line up properly. You may have to use the CNC A/R arm to help you line the plate up. When satisfied with the position, apply a little glue to tack in position and check with the swash and A/R arm for proper alignment. Once satisfied, apply a nice fillet of glue to secure, it may be better to use layers and/or epoxy.
Next step, we start mounting the servos as shown, you can use either double sided tape or another method such as epoxy, CA or shoe Goop. I prefer to use double sided tape or CA since it’s easier to remove the servo for servicing. The alignment of the servos will depend on your particular set up
We mount the whole head assembly on to the frame by sliding the main shaft and attaching the main gear and pin. Make sure everything is able to rotate freely and nothing is binding. You can now lock down the A/R arm, make sure it lines up the swash with the servos and then secure it down.
You should have something that looks like the picture.
Next, we install the motor, tail and main motor ESCs, receiver and gyro, in this case, we are using a Piccoboard. Once everything is installed, check for correct wiring to make sure they are connected to the right polarity. As shown in the picture, we’ve mounted everything nicely on the front tray of the piccolo.
Ensure that the wires are clear of the main gear and motor.
Next, we hook everything up to the receiver and check the servos to make sure they are centered. Then we hook the push rods to the arms on the swash. Ensure that there is enough movement without binding. If you have ATV (Adjustable Travel Volume) or EPA (End Point Adjustment) then set these to limit travel. If not, then you can use the inner holes of the servo arm to decrease throw. Once everything is setup, we can lock down the pushrods and servo horns. Make sure everything is working in the correct direction and adequate travel is established. Here is what everything should look like at this stage.
Conversion is ready for first test flight. Set the pitch 0 at lower throttle, about 5 degrees at mid stick and about 9 degrees at high stick and adjust from there. Of course these are just a guideline and actual settings will depend on your set up, equipment and TX. You can check to make sure everything is running properly by running the heli up in your hand, make sure you have eye protection. If you aren’t comfortable running it up in your hand, strap on some training gear and test that way. Start with small changes until you are happy with the setting. Enjoy all the hard work that you’ve done and now go fly!
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