Next we obviously need R/C components.
Here is the list of radio gear required:
1 – Basic 4ch radio (built in revolution mixer is a plus but not necessary)
2 – GWS 4ch Micro receiver
3 – 2 Cirrus CS-5.4 Micro Servos
4 – 2 Pixie 7P ESC
5 – Heading hold gyro for radios without revolution mixer, or regular Piezo gyro for radios with revolution mixer built in.
6 – Two cell LiPo battery pack.

Start of by cutting away part of the factory servo housing on both sides of the main body.
Also, grind off the any bumps on the body so that the servos can be mounted there. Make sure not to cut of the body mounts themselves.

Enlarge the wire slits in the lower half of the main frame, and also add two more slits on the opposite side of the frame. These will be used to run wires throughout the helicopter.

Next, solder the battery lead from both speed controllers to a single battery connector and use some shrink tubing to cover up the solder joints.

Use a permanent marker to label your R/C gear wires. Use one line for channel 1, two lines for channel 2, etc. This will simplify the receiver connections, as it is one of the last things to be installed. For Airtronics radios use Elevator (forward/backward cyclic) as ch1, Ailerons (side to side cyclic) as ch2, Throttle (bottom rotor ESC used for lift) as ch3, and Rudder (gyro connection for Yaw control) as ch4.

Once all the wires are run, assemble the two halves of the main body, using the supplied screw to hold them together.

Next, using supplied screws, attach both motors to the body. Shorten the ESC motor leads as needed and solder them to the metal leads of the motors.

If you are converting your existing Lama, then skip this step as this was already done for you. Assemble the lower rotor head assembly with the swash plate and the control arm, so that the swash plate is located between the spur gear and the bottom rotor head.

Insert the lower rotor head assembly into the main body, making sure that the shaft has a nice fit inside the bearings and the spur gear fits nicely with the motor pinion gear. Next, insert the upper head assembly into the lower head assembly, once again making sure that all bearings have a nice fit. Use the main gear to secure the mechanics of the helicopter.  Make sure that the setscrew goes into the notch of the shaft. Attach the skids to the frame with supplied screws.

Mount the aileron servo to the right side of the body using some CA glue and a scrap piece of ½” triangular balsa stock. Mount the elevator servo on the left side of the body using CA glue or servo tape. Make sure that both servos line up with the bottom of the top spur gear. Paint the piece of balsa with your choice of color.

Using servo tape, mount the gyro to the skids, connect the upper rotor ESC to gyro and zip tie any excess wire.

Mount the receiver to inside upper panel of the tail strut section. Make sure to face the servo connectors towards the helicopter’s body. Also use a piece of tape to prevent the crystal from falling out.

 

Connect the servo wires to their appropriate channels.
Push any excess wires back into the body and secure the tail strut to the body with the supplied screws.
Use two big screws, supplied with the swash plate assembly, to attach the servo arms to the swash plate. Make sure that the servo arms move around freely and use the hole closest to the center of the servo arm, because the swash plate requires very little movement.
Connect the servo arms to the servos according to the picture. Make sure that the swash plate arm with the long hole is located at the front servo, and try to position the swash plate in the center of the shaft. You may have to move the servos around a little bit.
We are almost there.
 

Program the Pixies, using manuals supplied with ESCs, for the LiPo battery cutoff voltage with soft cutoff. This will prevent the helicopter from falling out of the sky when the battery is drained.

If you are not using a heading hold gyro then program your Revo-Mixer. For my Airtronics RD-8000 I used the following scheme:
RV.L – (-55%)RV.M – (-10%)RV.H – (35%)
I let the gyro worry about the rest.

Next we setup the control movements:
Right input on the cyclic control stick should make the rear serve push the swash plate to the left.

Back input on the cyclic control stick should make the front servo pull the swash plate forward. Adjust your servo reverse modes accordingly.

Next the throttle and yaw:
Right input on the yaw stick should speed up the TOP rotor assembly in the counter clockwise direction.
Throttle up should make the BOTTOM rotor assembly move in the clockwise direction, as well as the TOP rotor assembly in the counter clockwise direction at the same time.


This means that the helicopter movement about the YAW access is controlled through the difference in the two rotor speeds. This means that in order to yaw to the right you need to increase the speed of the TOP rotor and to yaw left you need to decrease the speed of the TOP rotor. 

This is also how we test the gyro settings. With throttle down and other controls at neutral swing the tail to the right, the gyro should then compensate by increasing the TOP rotor speed. Adjust you gyro position if you get different results.

Now attach the rotor blades, secure the battery with a rubber band or a piece of Velcro and attach the cabin.

That’s it, you are now done. Don’t forget to trim out the heli over the first couple of flights, and have fun.